Filtered by tag ('block of the month')

2018 Block of the Month - Row 3

 by thequiltingpatch on 03 Dec 2018 |
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Hello Friends You'll be pleased to hear that after a bumpy and hectic start to the year I am actually caught up with this project. Hmmm, I should rephrase that. I have all my fabrics for the first two rows cut out and ready to take on a quilting retreat on the 1st June.  I did, however, cut up and sew a trial run of this next border last weekend and I'm quite happy with the way it has sewn out. So this time you are getting photos of my blocks as well as the usual insructions. This next row is made up of 6 picket diamond blocks ( so 12 to make as there are two rows) The block is a rectangle that should measure 8 1/2  x  6 1/2 inches. Its super important that you finish up with this measurement. My suggestion is that you make up one block as a tester and if it doesnt measure up do some investigation.  What to look for if its not measuring up.. 1. Have you cut it right? Go abck and check your measurements. 2. Are you sewing with a scant 1/4 inch? In patchwork we cut with a regular 1/4 inch off your ruler, but we sew with a scant 1/4". This measurement is slightly smaller than the 1/4" youll see on your ruler or tape.  Here is the cutting instructions for this row... PLEASE NOTE there is a section we are not going to piece on this block, rather we will add it as a plain strip in between rows.that is why this block ends up as a rectangle instead of a square.  Also with the A strips, there is no need to cut them back to 4 1/2", just cut them 1 1/2" by the width of fabric. This block is made of two sections - a strip set and a square in a square.  The top section is the strip set. There are two sets of four strips. each strip is a A piece ( 1 1/2" wide) I recommend only sewing strips of two together and then sewing the "twos" to each other, because if you sew 8 strips to each other youll find they start to twist.  Once you have a strip set of 4 strips, you can croscut them to 4 1/2" long. Measure your block of 8 strips - it should measure 8 1/2" x 4 1/2" The lower section is made up of quite small square in a square blocks. These can be fiddly, so take your time and enjoy the process. On that note... I have the same attitude to my sewing as  I do to cooking. Sometimes I'm making something simple and quick and its ok to be rushed. Othertimes I want a really good result, so I take my time and do each part of the task with care and precision.  This is one of those times. I'm going to run through these instrucions slowly, I hope it's not too annoying, but at the end you should have the skills to make a perfect square in a square block every time. This block consists of a centre square with 4 x triangles around it, tipping the centre square so that it sits onpoint. It sounds simple, and it can be just that if you take your time and follow a few rules. Then you'll end up with a block that hasn't lost its points. Step 1. Take a D square ( 1 7/8") and place a B triangle ( 1 7/8")  along one edge, centring it so that there is 1/4" hanging over each side. This excess needs to be spread evenly over each side.  Sew along this edge with a scant 1/4" seam. Important pressing instructions...  Press the seam CLOSED first. That means just pressing it how it is, without opening anything. Don't miss this important step - setting the seam is crucial.  Next, letting the weight of the iron do all the work, gently open the seam and press the triangle back.  Now we repeat that step with the opposite edge. The next step is to attach the remaining triangles to the remaining edges, still focusing on spreading the overhanging fabric evenly between the two sides. Note where my needle is when I'm sewing up this last seam. It is exactly where the two fabrics meet. Press gently again and then check your seam allowances on all four points of the centre square. Do you have a 1/4"? If you dont have a 1/4" of seam space, when you sew these blocks together, you're going to lose your points. Now is the time to fix it.  The next step is to join 4 of these units together to form a row. The seams can be quite thick, so I chose to press the seams open, rather than to one side.  Measure your block length. Does it measure 8 1/2"? Now you are ready to join this to the strip set you made earlier. Make sure you pin every seam junction. Measure your block - it should measure 8 1/2" x 6 1/2".  See you next time for Row 4!  

2017 Block of the Month - December

 by thequiltingpatch on 29 Nov 2017 |
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Congratulations! You made it to the last block...  Below are the instrcutions for both Decembers block and the quilt construction. this months block is a called "Sawtooth 16 Patch" Here is the layout and cutting guide for the block A - 3 1/2" squares B - 7 1/4"  squares, cut twice on the diagonal C - 3 7/8"  square cut once on the diagonal D - 2" squares ( the quickest way to piece this is to cut 2" strips rather than individual squares - see below) Quilt Construction Arrange your blocks in their rows. You don't have to follow the original layout for the sampler blocks. You may find that dependant on your colour choices you need to move blocks around. My top tip for this job is to take a photo on a smart phone of your layout, then edit the photo to black and white. Straight away you will see if there are any places on your quilt with a build up of one tone (like a dark or light patch)  Sometimes this is just not obvious to the eye, but the camera lens never lies.  Once you are happy with your rows, sew them together using a 1/4" inch seam allowance. You can number them with little pieces of paper and pins if that helps - but again you could always refer to your phone.  Once your rows are made you are ready to join row to row. Dont forget to press your seams between rows, pressing to one side. Borders  ​DO NOT JUST SEW YOUR BORDERS ON AND TRIM OFF THE EXCESS - this is by far the worst habit I see in patchwork. I could rant on for ages about this one, but suffice to say that you havent just made precise blocks that you lovingly cut and pieced so that you could slap on borders that you havent measured at all. Just humour me on this one please. First border  is 4"  Measure the two side edges of your quilt with a quilters tape measure. Most likely there will be a small discrepancy. It is usually less than 1 inch. Take an average of the two measurements and cut your first border to this size.  eg   My two side edge measurements are 61 " and 61.5 ". If I add these together and then divide them by two, I get 61.25". Therefore I will cut my first two border pieces 61.25".  Attach the borders with a 1/4 inch seam. Press. Now repeat that step with the top and bottom borders, measuring, taking an average, cutting to that size and attaching. See!  Not that hard...  You have a beautiful flat border with no extra fabric in it, AND your quilt is now squared up.  Peeper border is cut at 1 1/2" Follow the instructions for the first border - you shouldn't have any discrepanicies now . If you do you need to address your seam allowances  - are you sewing nice and straight with both edges aligned? Second border is 6" Continue to follow the instructions for the first border, remembering to press in between.  WOOOHOOO, nearly done.  I'm going to use that age old instruction now ... Quilt as desired Binding Cut 9 strips of fabric WOF x 2 1/2" wide. Join on a 45 degree angle end to end. Press in half widthways, attach the raw edges of the binding to the front of you quilt, mitring the corners as you go.  Bring the folded edge to the back of your quilt and slipstitch in place.  I hope you have enjoyed making this quilt in 2017. I'm still pondering on one for 2018, but I can't make any promises. Our year looks to be a busy one with many quilt shows booked in already.  I would however love to have a display of the finished quilts, including a rolling didital display of the quilts made by the girls from the USA ( unless of course we can convince them to bring them over in person!) Please let me know when yours is all finished and we can look at a date. ( No Pressure!) happy quilting Danni xx  

2017 Block of the Month - November

 by thequiltingpatch on 27 Oct 2017 |
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Are we there yet?  Just one more block and we can start putting this quilt together. Have you began thinking about how you are going to quilt it yet? As you know I love free motion quilting, but on this one I'm a bit stuck. Thank goodness there are another 75 quilts on the go to keep me busy while I work it out! November's Block is called Strawberry Smoothie - although in my colourings, I'm thinking mango smoothie. I have always known this block as a type of Card trick - with the right colouring it can look very 3D. Here is the layout and cutting guide for the block A - 4 7/8" squares, cut once on the diagonal B - 5 1/4"  squares, cut twice on the diagonal C -  4 1/2"  square ( in either a colour OR a background fabric) Firstly make your quarter square triangle units and your half square triangle units   Put the half square traingle units ( on the left in my pic) to one side. Next use the quarter square unit ( on the right)  to make the finished quarter square blocks Trim off the dog ears on the corners. You now have all the units made to make up the block in three rows. Lay them out before you sew to make sure you dont flip anything around the wrong way. And that's it for another month. You'll be pleased to know life has settled down a bit. I'm going to update the makers album over the weekend, so keep an eye out for your blocks!  

2017 Block of the Month - October

 by thequiltingpatch on 12 Oct 2017 |
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So far on this BOM project I have made sure that the blocks were all ready to upload before the beginning of the month, but I think I can safely say that as today is the 12th October, I have failed! Please accept my sincerest apologies - I had the best intentions when we went up to Brisbane for the Brisbane Quilt Show. ( laptop in tow) There must be a thinning of the air in Queensland because my brain just couldnt get the laptop turned on. It may also have had something to do with the hundreds of quilters we served daily at the show - either way - well it just didn't happen. But here we are ready for the next block and just think ...by the time you are finished this one, November block will be on the blog too! This months block is a simple pinwheel star, made entirely of HST ( Half square triangles) and a square on each corner. Here is the layout and cutting guide for the block  A - 3 1/2 " squares  B - 3 7/8" squares ( you can either cut them in half or make easy HST's) I almost feel like this block needs no instruction what with the far more complicated blocks you have made so far. Hopefully you are also feeling a bit more confident putting blocks together.  Your main task is to make all the HST units first - they are easily speed pieced.  Remember to trim those nasty dogears off after you press each unit. Although you could easily construct this block in 4  rows, because the centre of the pinwheel is the focus, I like to piece it first and get the seam right If you didnt get the centre right first go, its much easier to unpick than if you have joined two whole rows of your block. Now you can attach the side units and make top and bottom rows, and then join them on. I hope you enjoy making this block and that you forgive me for its late arrival!  

2017 Block of the Month - September

 by thequiltingpatch on 26 Aug 2017 |
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Nearly there Folks! As you may have noticed I've been working down the block  layout of the original design as I have a number of ladies who are already starting to put their quilt rows together and are quilting it!! They are doing quilt-as-you-go, one of my favourite ways of tackling a larger quilt. I have given it much thought but have decided to quilt mine the traditonal way and put it all together first.  This months block is called "Girls favourite" - aptly named for the pretty icecream sunday colours I've used in the block. ( a complete coincidence I can assure you) Here is the layout and cutting guide for the block  A - 3 1/2 " squares  B - 4 1/4" squares, cut twice on the diagonal to yield 4 triangles C - 3 7/8"  squares, cut once on the diagonal to yield 2 triangles  D - 2 5/8" squares For this block we need to make the side units and the centre as two separate units, then join them together. Here is what the centre looks like. The easist way to achieve this is to make 4 half square triangles and sew them together.  Next we get to work on the side units. They begin like this - a D square with two Bs attached. Take care to get those B's sewn to the right edges. They're easy to muck up! Now we make the triangles that sit either edge of this unit. My top tip here is to lay it all out in piles next to the sewing machine so you cant pick up the wrong piece! Make the light/dark pink triangles first... Then sew then to one side of the base unit and press.  Finish the unit by sewing the last pink/red triangle to the opposite edge and press. Now you are ready to construct the block.  Follow the plan below to finish Girls Favourite.  I hope you are enjoying making the blocks - only three to go now!

2017 Block of the Month - July

 by thequiltingpatch on 30 Jun 2017 |
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Last month I set a little challenge. I told you that this months block would be nearly the same. Lots of you took up the challenge and went ahead and made the block. This Months block is called Ohio Star Here is the key and rotary cutting instructions for this block.. yes there are only 2 shapes to cut! So reading off the "map" of our block  A - 4 1/2 " Squares , (background and main) B - 5 1/4" Squares, cut twice on the diagonal to yield 4 triangles (background, main and accent) Here is the layout.  Here are my sewing pics for the unit and rows.. What a nice easy block Ohio star is! Here are some quilts made from this simple but effective little block..(Found on Pinterest)  

2017 Block of the Month - April

 by thequiltingpatch on 03 May 2017 |
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Hooray! Its April... This Months block is based on the "square in a square" block.  Here is the key and rotary cutting instructions for this block..  Im sure you have noticed already that there are no letters on the HST ( half square triangles)  on the corners. They are all A pieces For a change we are going to make the HST using  the quick HST method, something we havent done yet.  So here are the cutting instructions  A - 2 7/8 " Squares( 6 background, 6 colour) DONT CUT THEM INTO TRIANGLES B - 4 1/2 x 2 1/2 " rectangles ( 4 background) C - 4 7/8" squares,  cut once on the diagonal to yield 2 triangles ( 4 in colour) D - 4 1/2 " square (1 in colour) E - 5 1/4" squares,  cut twice on the diagonal to yield 4 triangles ( 4 in colour) This is a fairly straight forward block to construct - it all starts in the centre of the block with the D square. This month, Ive taken photos of my block as it comes together.  So we begin by sewing two triangles (E) to the side edges of our centre square (D) Seems pretty straight forward? Here the important thing is to line up the triangle tips evenly over the edge of the square.there should be a little over a 1/4 inch poking over the edge. Once that is pressed, take your remaining E triangles and attach them to the other centre square edges.   So we now have a square in a square. Trim off the dog ears where the seams meet. Now we repeat that process with the C triangles, to get a square in a square in a square! Put that to one side now - we are going to make the HST units.  Take the 12 ( total) A squares and match each background square up with a coloured square.  On one of the pair, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner. I chose my black background as its easy to see. Now take the pairs to the sewing machine, facing the squares right sides together, sew a 1/4 inch away from the marking. Repeat with all 6 pairings. Now we turn those squares around and sew 1/4 inch away from the marking beginning at the opposite corner.  Once you have finished sewing you can cut on the sewn line. Each pairing will yield 2 x HST to use in your block. You need 12 x HST in total.  Putting the block together is quite simple.  The side edge units are made by attaching a HST to both short edges of the rectangle B Once you have these two made you can go ahead and pin them to the sides of your centre square in a square unit.  The top and bottom rows of our block are made in a similar way, except we need two HST units on each short end. Make sure that you have the HST colourings in the right place by using the colour pic as your guide. And Voila! You are finished with April.  You can spend the rest of the month catching up with the alternate blocks if you havent made them already!  

2017 Block of the Month - Irish Chain Alternate Blocks

 by thequiltingpatch on 26 Mar 2017 |
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Here we go! The block youve all been waiting for... I know these blocks as Irish chains, but I think that only one of them is REALLY Irish and the rest are variations.   Ours is called "Alabama Variation", and here are some pics of others, so you can see what theyre all about. Although these three chain blocks are different, they will all have a similar effect in your quilt design as an alternate block, creating diagonal lines through your quilt top. If you have sampler blocks like we do, the chain helps to create balance and unity to the quilt design. Now I know what youre all thinking... Look at all those little squares and strips. But take heart, we are going to make this block the easy way.  Instead of cutting squares, we will be cutting strips, sewing strips and then cutting again. For you newbies, this is usually called strip piecing. It saves a lot of time. If you havent done it before, dont stress, its actually much easier than sewing all those squares and strips together. And once you "get it" youll start looking at your other patchwork projects to see how you can apply it to them! I suggest you make a cuppa and have a read to the end if this process is new to you.  I think it helps to take a good look at how this block is made up, to see where the potential " strip sets" are.  Ok so the first pic is our block. The second pic shows the outer strips sets ( we are going to call those the B sets) The third pic shows the midde strips sets ( we are going to call those the C sets) The last pic shows the inner strips sets ( we are going to call those A sets) There is one more potential strip set available to us in this block. It is the centre square and the neighbouring strips either side of it.   However, if you are fussy cutting this fabric because of the print, or using smaller ( not width of fabric) pieces than you can just piece this the regular way. (FYI I only had fat quarters of the fabric I chose for the centre square so I decided Id just cut mine into squares and not bother with the strip piecing method for this section.) Here are the measurements for the strip sets and photos of mine. B Strip set  (2 x)  2" x WOF strips (1x)  9 1/2" x WOF strip - background fabric C Strip set (2 x)  2" x WOF strips (1x)  6 1/2" x WOF strip - background fabric A Strip set (2 x)  2" x WOF strips (1x)  3 1/2" x WOF strip - background fabric And this is what a strip set looks like sewn together, and pressed.The black is my background fabric. (And YES I do have to apologise, because I've changed my mind on my fabric colours and am making my squares red instead of lime green. Sorry if that is confusing!) So you can see I have simply sewn the 2" strips either side of my black background strip. You need to repeat this for the 3 strips sets. And here you can see my strip sets on the ironing board ready to cut up.  Now that they are made and pressed, they are ready to slice into 2" segments.  At this point, if you've never done this before you may be having a little "AHA!" moment. Hopefully you are also thinking about how long it would have taken to make this block had you cut all the pieces into strips and square and sewn them together individually.  Ok so when youve cut up all three strip sets, you'll have piles of these units made So thats the strip sets done and dusted. Put them aside, now and lets get cutting the other parts of this block.  In this picture the grey defines the three remaining strips that we need to cut.   We also need to cut the centre square, and as we talked about this might be fussy cut if you have such a suitabe fabric.  Ok so the cutting for the centre square is easy. They are 3 1/2" squares, and youll need 12 of them. The rest are cut from your background fabric and are as follows A   3 1/2" x 2" ( cut a 3 1/2" strip and then crosscut it) B   9 1/2"  x 2"  ( cut a 9 1/2" strip and then crosscut it) C   6 1/2" x 2"  ( cut a 6 1/2" strip and then crosscut it) Once youve cut these you have everything you need to make this block.  BUT you wont have enough of them to make all 12 blocks.  As most fabric is roughly 40" wide, youre going to get 20 units when you cut it all into 2" segments.  Each strip or strip set unit is used twice in each block, so we are going to need 24 of each piece.  The best way is to cut 2 more background fabric strips- one at 9 1/2", the other at 3 1/2". They are both WOF. Cut the 9 1/2" strip in half crossways so you have two 9 1/2" x 21"( approx )  Use ONE of those 9 1/2" strips  - cut (4) 2" segments off and add to your B piles of background strips. Now use whats left of that strip ( which will now measure approx 9 1/2 x 13") to make a Strip Set as we did earlier in this lesson. Cut the strip set into 2" segments and add those to your piles of 9 1/2" strip set units.  PHEW!  You should still have a 9 1/2" x 21" strip left. Cut it down so it measures 6 1/2" x 21".  Pretty much it just a repeat now of what you did with the first half of the 9 1/2" strip, except now you are topping up your 6 1/2" piles.  The 3 1/2" strip gets the same treatment, using half for strips and half for strip sets. By now I think we all need a cuppa and a biscuit. Or a wine. But not too much because we are going to get sewing next. When you are ready to sew... This is the easy bit, and a little repetitive. My top tip is to press your seams out towards the block edges, not towards the centre. You should be pressing after each edge is joined. Keep to pressing, try not to squeeze the life out of your fabric with the iron, or your block will warp.  Start with the centre square ( 3 1/2") , adding the two smallest strips to each side( the A strips).  (Please excuse the washed out pics, my sewing machine light was on !!) Now add the smallest strip set ( the A strip set)  to the top and bottom Next we add the C strips to the sides And you guessed it the C strip set is next. Ok I think you have got this. just keep adding the plain strips to the sides and the strip sets to the top and bottom. Dont forget pinning the seams is the best way to get them to line up - and the pressing directions will help that too.  You should end up with something like this. Now make 12 more lol. As always feel free to email me at info@e-patch.com.au if you have any questions, or throw a question in the comments box below.  Please forgive me if we take a day or so to get back to you, we are at product launch stage with our EPP templates and that is sucking all the time out of my day!  

2017 Block of the Month - February

 by thequiltingpatch on 29 Jan 2017 |
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February... This month's block is called Marmalade.. ( originally called Fools Square) Here is the key and rotary cutting instructions for this block..  A  -  2 7/8" square B -   3 1/4" square, cut once on the diagonal to yield 2 triangles Ok, so you may prefer to sew this together in units, but I find it easier to sew 5 patch blocks together in rows. That way I can iron my seams in opposite directions on each row and they line up well.  Have fun with Marmalade, I hope it is a nice little distraction from your other sewing this month. Dont forget Im right here if you get stuck or just want to say G'Day  xx  
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The Storytellers Sampler Quilt - the Joy of Fussycutting

by thequiltingpatch on 20 Jan 2020
The story so far... Local quilter Cinzia White publishes an amazing book, The Storytellers Sampler Quilt. Eppiflex templates launches a Block of The Month called Telling Tales, featuring 60 upsized blocks from the book and I start sewing up blocks. Cinzia asks me to contribute to her quiltalong using blocks from the aforementioned book. I fall down the rabbithole of fussycutting. But let's talk about what this is really about... Addicted to sewing...addicted to fabric...addicted to starting new projects... and now addicted to fussycutting.  So what's the hype about fussycutting?  If you are already a creative soul and enjoying making pretty blocks by joining shapes together, fussy cutting is some next level crafty action. Do you remember those kaliedoscope toys we had as kids. I have no idea how they worked, they were just MAGIC. Who could get bored with the amazing patterns they made as you twisted and turned them. I was fascinated with them.                   "No you cant have a go yet, Im not finished" - I wasnt a good sharer being the youngest and most spoilt of my siblings. Ask my sister, she will back me up.  So fussycutting a beautiful fabric into an even more beautiful fabric block is a bit like making magic for me. Mirrors? Yeah nah. I know some people swear by them, but I don't want to know what it's going to look like. Why spoil the magic? That's like someone showing you a picture of the next kaliedoscope before you can twist the tube. Just let the magic happen. Embrace the unknown a little.  Waste of fabric?  This is what Cinzia says to me... but let's be honest we all have enough fabric to be a bit less frugal with it. I think quilters are the quintessential horders. Why else would we have so many memes about collecting fabric. Even the term stash says it all.  In fact in the current economic climate of a massive downturn in retail spending I think we all have a responsibilty to fussy cut more and support the shops before they disappear altogether.  So my little contribution to Cinzia's Quiltalong is "Blackberry Freedom" and it is English paper pieced. Thanks Cinzia for asking me to join in and for writing such a sensational book.  

2019 Block of the Month - Borders and Construction

by thequiltingpatch on 24 Dec 2019
If you've made it this far, you have sewn all your 12 flower blocks and the sun compass and are wondering whats next.. Here is where we are going to work with what you have, and not with what you should have according to this pattern. We are going off road! And let me explain why.. First of all, there's colour and fabric choice.. if you lay out your blocks exactly as the pattern above, it may not be the best layout your quilt could have. For instance when I laid my blocks out exactly as the quilt pattern, I ended up with 4 blocks of red flowers in a row. There was a real clump of red in one section and it looked aweful. So I've moved my 4 red blocks, placing one in each corner. I then took my 3 blue blocks and evenly spread them around, and so on.  It might take you a while to decide where your blocks are going. Take some photos with your phone along the way so you can decide on your final layout. Looking through you phone makes it easier for you to spot the "clumps" of colour or tone. Lets talk about how this medallion quilt is going to come together.  First of all we have our centre block - our sun compass. It's going to have a thin floral frame.  This is surrounded by a floral block border - these are the 12 floral blocks that you made. First we will attach two side border sections, made from 4 of our floral blocks. Next we will attach the top and bottom border sections made from our remaining 8 floral blocks. The pieced border is a border that features the scrappy floral prints we have used to frame our flower blocks. The last border is a plain border which is cut 3 1/4" wide Last is the binding - cut at 2 1/2" wide To frame the sun compass, cut your 4 frames 1 3/8" x 20 1/2" ( or whatever your compass square measures - mine was 20" so believe me there is wiggle room)  Cut 4 corner stones in the background fabric 1 3/8" Attach two squares to either end of two of your frames. Sew the first two plain frames to the sides of your compass centre Now add the frames with the cornerstones attached to the top and bottom of the sun compass Its now time to attach the side floral blocks to the framed sun compass. Make sure you pin the seam intersections so that your frames on your sun compass line up with the frames on your floral blocks.  The next step is to attach the top and bottom floral block rows, again making sure the seams line up by pinning them first.  The last bit of piecing from this quilt will be the pieced border. We are going to strip piece it, unless you are working with scraps and can't cut strips in any great length to strip piece.  If you are not familiar with strip piecing, check out my blog post from last year, in particular the first set of photos where I explain cutting and sewing the strips and then crosscutting them.  Your strips will be cut 2 1/8" wide. Sew one background fabric strip to a floral strip. Press well. Then crosscut this strip set to 3 1/4".  Join the sections of 3 1/4" together, topping and tailing them so that the fabric prints create a checkerboard pattern.  Each border has 16 units making up the checkerboard. You will need 64 units to make enough for the quilt.  Make and sew your border units together. Measure the length of these border units. Now cut 4 strips in the background fabric that is 3 3/4" wide x the length measured above. Sew these strips to each border unit.  ( ignore the seams in the picture below - your plain strip is cut in one length)  Now we need to make the 4 corner units. Once finished you will will attach two corner units to either end of 2 of your border units.  The corner unit consists of a four patch bordered on two sides by a mitred edge.  The four patch section consist of squares cut 2 1/8". The mitred edges are strips cut 3 3/4" x 7 3/8" and then trimmed on one edge at 45 degrees.     To sew this corner unit together, first make the four patch sections. Then pin and sew one mitred border from the straight side edge to the corner, stopping 1/4" short of the angled edge. Press.    Pin your second mitred border piece to the adjacent edge Beginning at the straight edge, sew towards the mitre, stop at the 1/4", lift the machine foot keeping the machine needle down to hold the fabric in place. Align the two pointy corner pieces and the mitred edge. Lower the foot and continue sewing to the end of the seam.     Your corner section seams should align with your border section seams. Attach two corner sections to the end of two pieced borders as below. You are now ready to attach the first two borders to the side edges of your quilt (the two without the corners attached.) Make sure you pin the borders and then sew. Press the quilt and then attach the second two borders (with the corners attached) again pinning first to align seams.  Phew!!! Nearly there!! The last border is a plain background border cut at 3 1/4", so it's time to press and measure your quilt, so you'll be able to cut the first two strips to the correct size. I would suggest measuring the quilt through the centre and cutting those 3 1/4" strips to this length, as a last effort in squaring up the quilt. Once you have the first two strips cut you can sew them on and press them. Repeat this step cutting the last two border strips to size before pinning and sewing them on.  Congratulations... if you are here with me now, you have a finished quilt top!! I hope you have enjoyed this years' challenging quilt - I think it is quite stunning and a credit to your sewing skills.  Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas! Have a safe and relaxing holiday season.  Much love Danni xx
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